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隱身嘉義窄巷的歐陸餐酒館「溫淳」。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
基於過去遊歐旅居法國的經歷,桃城豆花第二代老闆Sam三年前在開設光華店時,便把歐式早午餐和自然派葡萄酒融入菜單,使這間1960年代老醫館翻新而成的豆花店不僅空間迷人,吃碗豆花還能配上一杯葡萄酒的獨特餐飲體驗也受到不少人喜愛,不過桃城豆花的主角畢竟是豆花,歐式輕食和葡萄酒不能過於喧賓奪主。
法式的慢滋味
所以在光華店營運上軌道後,Sam便開始著手打造一直想嘗試的歐陸料理餐酒館,「法國人一人三道菜吃上兩個鐘頭是基本,就是食飯配話,你一坐下來,服務員可能會問你:『先來杯開胃酒嗎?』之後才會慢慢幫你點菜,我喜歡這樣的飲食文化,希望能將這形式帶進嘉義、呈現完整的餐飲體驗。」Sam推廣自然酒的同時,也期望向嘉義人呈現法式Déguster的慢活美學和餐飲文化。
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(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
Sam引用了西漢辭賦家枚乘的賦作《七發》 中,描寫飲食的詞句「飲食則溫淳甘膬,脭醲肥厚」,擷取「溫淳」二字為餐酒館命名, 以天然純樸的食材來做變化,呈現飲食的滋味濃厚、溫和純樸,也帶給每位客人溫暖歡愉的用餐體驗。
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溫淳老闆Sam。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
天井庭院塑造森林意象
為了讓客人能以慢步調好好享用佳餚,空間和氛圍就很重要。Sam耗費了一段時間尋覓理想的店面空間,「我就只有兩個條件,一是要在巷子裡,二是有戶外空間能做花園,車庫或後院都沒關係,我自己蓋出來!」最後找尋到隱身於民生南路窄巷中的這間ㄇ字型高聳建築,中央有個天井能滿足他創造植栽庭院的心願。
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溫淳隱身民宅巷弄間,入口有著一顆百歲銀葉橄欖樹,灰色冷調與水泥相襯出內斂的韻味。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
溫淳以圓石堆砌而成的矮外牆和一棵義大利進口的百年銀葉橄欖樹迎接著饕客,穿越水泥長廊便是天井下的口型小花園,Sam再次請到打造桃城豆花光華店後院庭園的景觀設計師操刀,以曾躺於河床的大塊埔里石、小碎石、蕨類和紫薇樹等植栽,與原本就佇立其中的落羽松構築出宛若森林一隅的自然小天地,夜晚客人只要隨著石頭步道和發著暖黃光的指示燈,便能進到室內座位區。
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穿過入口的水泥廊道便會進到天井庭院。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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擺放於庭院邊的木座椅是從馬來西亞進口的婆羅洲鐵木,坑坑疤疤的樹皮表面和入口橄欖樹皮相呼應。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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Sam將一座小森林帶進天井庭院中。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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仰望上方能看見落羽松搖曳的羽葉和天空景色,充滿詩意。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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夜晚戶外的暖黃指示燈開啟,便會添增一股靜謐。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
天然材料構築簡樸空間
在室內裝潢上,Sam選擇了「木頭、石材和水泥」三項天然材料,以簡單的元素呈現純樸之感:部分牆面和桌具的桌面,是從木材廠蒐集到的柚木邊角廢料集成加工,再請師傅切磨成形,每塊紋路都是獨一無二的姿態;入口處放置鮮花的的古董迎賓櫃,檯面是以大理石製成,與作為盛裝麵包餐具的台灣早期大理石電話轉盤座、手工筷架等石材元素相呼應;水泥的軟裝製作上,因為場域限制水泥車無法進入,只能先打底再手工磨製,最後呈現出和柚木拼接的獨特桌具,以及Sam最喜愛、嵌入牆面的陳列置物櫃。
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室內空間標示著溫淳二字的來源。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
搭配柚木餐桌的椅具則選用了丹麥設計師Niels Otto Møller創立的家具品牌J.L. Møllers所推出的經典78號單椅,其符合人體工學的椅背有著優美的流線,勾勒出簡樸輪廓和舒適的乘坐體驗,凸起的椅角設計更增添一股獨特的個性,具有彈性的紙纖座面與木質結構共同展現出永恆之美,為整體空間奠定出質感基調。
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空間選用J.L. Møllers的經典78號單椅(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
創意點綴歐陸經典菜餚、啜飲自然派美酒
共20席座位的溫淳,提供著Sam精心設計的歐陸料理和約四、五十款的自然派葡萄酒。餐食種類以法國料理基本的「前菜、主菜和甜點」三大類組成,許多都是Sam遊歷歐洲和在法國餐廳工作時所習得的料理,有些融入了他的創意巧思玩出不同風味,像是前菜中卷所使用的青醬,是以芝麻葉製成,相較於一般的羅勒更能襯出中卷的鮮味;法式肉派調和了肉醬和肝醬的比例降低內臟味,讓平時不吃內臟的人也能入口;主菜的燉澳洲和牛臉頰特意保留筋膜,再以精準火喉將肉質燉爛而仍能吃出膠質感。
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主座位區的另一側便是開放式的廚房,此區也設有二、三席座位,可欣賞到料理過程。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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廚房的座位區能看到料理過程。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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入座後便有招待的麵包可與餐前酒一同享用;餐具選用了法國品牌Sabre Paris,是法國餐酒館常見的標配,握柄金屬釦帶出歐陸老餐館氛圍。 (Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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法國菜市場也能見到的經典肉派Terrine,名字取自料理時盛放的陶器,Sam在肉醬和肝醬中加了開心果提供口感,外面包覆了一層生火腿以鎖住肉汁,酸麵包與酸黃瓜能平衡出最佳風味。 (Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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點上兩道前菜和一道主菜,配上一杯葡萄酒,便是常見的法式餐桌風景。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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Sam會依照客人點的料理推薦合適的酒款。(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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餐後也能來道起司盤,僧侶頭起司花和義大利Gorgonzola乳酪會再搭另一種硬起司,加上生火腿呈現經典法式風味。(Photo Credit:溫淳)
夏季伴隨著蟬鳴鳥叫,庭院的紫薇樹將奼紫嫣紅、翠綠之間染上簇攢的粉色,再來隨著天氣轉涼迎來秋季,落羽松也將接續漸變成金黃紅褐色,溫淳在四季更迭中變換著不同風景,但樹影仍會隨著天井落下的風緩緩搖曳,室內則會延續著溫馨氛圍,人們在其中悠悠自在,「裡頭可以吵、可以喧嘩,不用穿得很正式,就來輕鬆地好好吃頓飯吧!」
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(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
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(Photo Credit:MOT TIMES;Photography:Kura Yang)
溫淳 Tenderness
地址|嘉義市西區民生南路32巷12號
營業時間|17:30 - 22:00(週二、三公休)
編輯/Kura Yang